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  jayibold

not your traditional corned beef

3/22/2012

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i missed out on corned beef as a kid. my parents were total foodies, way into that cast of 70's culinary super stars...Clayborne, Franey, Bocuse. but along with their urbane culinary pursuits came a certain snobbery/disdain for some really good comfort food like corned beef. the Hull family across the street was very different. they were in to good old american fare.
the amiable Bill Hull could just as well have been the classic rural 5th generation dairy farmer. i'm pretty sure my mom never swapped recipes with Nancy Hull. i remember the cramped Hull kitchen very well and the sound and smells of the pressure cooker filled with corned beef, vegetables, potatoes. it was so foreign to me-that unmistakable smell of corned beef-that i found it revolting. i must say that to this day there's something 'off' about that smell. i think it's the silly seasoning packs and how they mingle with the nitritey meat and cabbage. but i love the meat! so here's my different take on corned beef...
Picture
and it's simple. let the cat out of the bag, rinse well, discard the seasoning pack, and place meat in a big pot with enough water to cover meat. bring to boil then lower heat to simmer. no bubble bubble. after one hour remove meat, discard cooking water, and start over with fresh water. same routine as above but once simmering add onion, a habanero cut in half (or tsp. hot pepper flakes?), 1/4 cup sugar, and some pepper corns. simmer 1-2 hours or until tender (depending on the beef  mass). this double dip method is how i exorcise the 'corn' from the beef. the 'corn' being pink salt, or sodium nitrate. they dye it because if you eat too much you die, eventually.
when done i get rid of everything but the meat. the hotness of the pepper just adds some zip to the outermost part of the meat. serve right away? i don't but you sure could. i refrigerate and serve as snack, or mix with scramble egg, make sandwiches....the Hulls kitchen table used to often have a bowl or two of cut carrots and celery floating in ice water. and salt nearby. add a plate of sliced corn beef and maybe some blue cheese dip and there you go. cold beer, vinho verde, chilled dole???
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